Ski Mountaineering at Moloch Hut

G3 gear ambassador Alex Geary checked in with some great photos and a trip report from a week at the Moloch Hut. Note, this post was previously mislabelled the Northern Selkirks Traverse, which it is not.

On Friday May 31st, I finished my last ski trip of the spring with Ruedi Beglinger and Selkirk Mountain Experience. We were supposed to fly in several tent camps in advance and traverse from Mt Holway to the Durrand Glacier, but due to fog we couldn’t fly in the camps. Instead we spent the week ski mountaineering from the Moloch Hut (we were all more than happy to spend our nights in a hut given the forecast for the week).

Day 2: Climbing Fridolin Peak

I’d been wanting to climb Fridolin Peak for a long time, constantly skiing past it in the winter, so it was great to finally climb it. Skiing down the East Face was awesome! We got it just in time before the sun turned it to mush.

Ruedi skiing the East face of Fridolin Peak in perfect powder

Day 3 the weather was milk-bird, so we did an easier classic circuit over Mt Fang, Mt Ruth, and up to Innominata Shoulder before picking up another load from the heli drop.

Carrying another load up to the Moloch Hut from Meeting of the Glaciers.

Day 4 the weather was a little better, so we headed over to Fang Rock via Fridolin Notch and Grey Fang Col, involving some fun technical ski mountaineering.

Climbing the fixed rope on Fridolin Notch we prepared on Sunday

After crossing the bergschrund at Grey Fang Col and Ruedi belaying us up a steep couloir, it was time to climb the summit of Fang Rock on some loose 4th class limestone.

Ruedi leading the crux on Fang Rock

A couple of pitches later and we were on the summit of Fang Rock; probably only the 3rd or 4th ascent.

Ruedi and the guests on Fang Rock

We had to cross Grey Fang Col and Fridolin Notch again on the way back to the Moloch Hut, making for some more fun ropework.

Skiing through Grey Fang Col on belay so we didn’t fall in the bergschrund.

Day 5 the weather was again not looking so good, so we went for a classic loop up Mt Graham and around Faladay Col to Zwillings East, then Sentinel South Peak.

Skiing through the icefall on Graham Glacier
Back at the Moloch Hut

Day 6 we decided to go for another technical route up the Aiguille. Ruedi started grabbing old hexes and Friends hanging on the wall in the Moloch Hut, as we hadn’t planned to climb anything requiring rock gear; “Alex can you carry this? You don’t mind?”…… “Sure Ruedi, is there anything else we need from the museum?” (Don’t worry the gear was still fine!)

After a great ski off the Aiguille and down the Super Couloir, we went back up the Aiguille and across to the Moloch Hut via the West Face of Sentinel South Peak; another classic steep line.

Our last day we managed a great circuit over Mt Fang, down to the Forbidden Glacier, up Tumbledown Mountain and down into the Swiss Meadows for our pickup. With Swiss efficiency we finished skiing, loaded the helicopter, and arrived at the staging area in about 5 minutes, a whirlwind finish to the ski season.

-Alex GearyG3 Ambassador

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